Showing posts with label korean. Show all posts
Showing posts with label korean. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Weekend in Gyeongju

Last weekend we had a wonderful time in Gyeongju, a mountainous coastal city in the SE of the peninsula. This is a smaller city, more like a town, surrounded by beautiful mountains, many of which are home of UNESCO World Heritage sites. The oldest and largest Buddhist temple in Korea is on Bulguska mountain, and we decided not to miss it. Along with some friends we rented motorbikes for the afternoon and cruised around, it was a blast! Driving in the downtown was a little scary at first, cause it's madness on these streets, but we managed to get out of the city, to the open road, winding up the mountains and lined with blooming cherry blossom trees. The slightest breeze would cause the petals to fall around making it a truly remarkable scene. The sun was out, our only hope for warmth on the crisp spring day, as we climbed higher up the cool mountain.




We hiked in to the highest mountain temple. To celebrate Buddhas birthday, which is coming up in about a week, there are lanterns decorating the streets and buildings, with lots of festivals planned. The lantern display at Bulguksa was remarkable, the whole place was remarkable and exotic, the view from up there was stellar (the sea!), the fresh air, the blooming flowers, the buildings themselves, the monks singing, the breeze blowing, the newness of it all! This is why I travel... for the adventure, to collect all the new memories, and to see the ways of life that I can not see at home. 













We cruised back down the winding mountain roads, feeling much more comfortable on our bikes, and enjoying the warming air with each steep S curve we traversed. One more stop at a famous temple, marked on Koreas currency, and crowded with tourists, then back to sea level!












After returning the bikes we did what we usually do when traveling anywhere: eat exotic food! And lots of it! Jeanie, a native Korean who we were traveling with, is from this region, so she was able to help us find the best, most obscure and dirty gogi restaurant in town. It was incredible! Whole octopus and thick cut pork, grilled bananas and garlic, tons of greens and a whole lot of soju were how we celebrated the winding down a a great trip.











We stayed in town in a traditional Korean home, with a detached guesthouse in their garden. They provided sleeping mats and we all slept on the heated floor. The older couple who lived there were both artists and the large open room was lined with their art. The place was really beautiful in the early morning sunlight. 


And the grey afternoon as well! 






I am not sure how to explain this one, but I had to share it and mention that I am glad that these are the only chickens I have to be dealing with these days.... 

random statues


I hope you enjoyed these stories... more to come soon. 
In the meantime be good and try to enjoy each moment!
Love.







Monday, March 28, 2011

Weekend in Busan

What a nice break from Seoul to head south to the beautiful city of Busan, still a big city, but with a more relaxed beach life attitude, and amazing seafood! The weather was breezy, sunny and 60 degrees. The company was wonderful, and again I say.... the food! It was so great. Busan has a population of three and half million people, and is known for it's long sandy beaches and an incredible bridge that lights up at night.



 It was nice to breathe the sea air and smell fresh fruit from vendors along the streets, while encountering some odd sights along the way.




the street our hotel is on


a strange amusement park just outside our hotel


We stayed just a few steps off the beach, at a dumpy but cheap hotel in the fish market neighborhood. The streets were lined with huge tanks of crab and eel and flounder and so many species of fish and seafood that I could not even name them. Trucks came and unloaded at all hours of the day with the freshest catch and restaurant workers came and picked up, a constant flow of fish. It's amazing how many people the sea feeds.... Including us! We had a FEAST of crab one afternoon. It was really amazing. We selected our crabs, live and crawling around, and the man took them away while we were seated on the heated floor and served scores of small dishes of food and lots of beer while we waited for the main dish.

we selected our crabs here- so many to choose from!






the table at the beginning of the meal




peanuts, quail eggs, and a touch of salt


How quickly it seemed that it went from this:


to this:


to this:


and finally this:





After feasting on the succulent crab meat they took the empty shells, with the remains of the brains and guts (mmm...) and stir fried it up with some rice and veggies and served it back to us. It was actually quite good! The perfect amount of saltiness and sea taste.





The aftermath of any Korean meal thus far has been a very messy table with lots and lots of little plates with traces of the food that once filled them. The way food is done here is so wonderful. I feel a little sad when I make myself dinner and it's just one or two dishes of something, I have become so accustomed to the Banchan that accompanies every meal! And of course, it is perfectly accepted to lie down on the heated floor after indulging so....




After the incredible lunch we made dinner plans with our friends and set off to explore some more of Busan, encountering nice markets and busy city streets and a cool bar on the beach, a perfect place to watch the day turn into night.












Gwanganli beach










Lunch was topped only by our interesting dinner experience. We traveled slightly out of town to eat dinner in a tent! Little did we know that dinner would turn out to be 5 hour affair involving somewhere close to 20 bottles of soju and an dessert of live octopus. We had a private tent for the 9 of us, with open fires and grills at each of our two tables, gravel below us and some Balkan Beat Box on the ipod. Large trays of shellfish came our way and we grilled them in the shell and ate as we pleased, throwing the leftovers all into a pot and making a stew of mushrooms, seafood juice from the shells, chopped scallops clams, oysters, onions, kimchi, fresh rosemary, potatoes and anything else we could find on our tables. It was so good and spicy as usual and we successfully washed it all down with our ample soju and beer and laughed until the night was black and chilly, and after a walk on the rocky seaside we made our way home for a good night sleep. 


the food on this plate was still moving when we ate it! The tentacles stuck to our tongues and cheeks




What a good trip it was, and also so good to be back in Seoul at the end of the weekend.
More photos are available on Nicole's Flickr site




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