rain for the seoul....

The rainy season is in full effect here in Seoul, and it is no joke! I mean I thought that I, of all people, born and raised in the rainy Pacific Northwest, would be used to rainy seasons. Well this is different, it is some other breed of rain, it’s Asian rain, aka: torrential downpours all day. Imagine that heavy spring rain that happens in Portland for about one hour in the afternoon and it’s insane to even go outside during that time, well it’s like that here, only for the whole day, hours on end of rivers in the street, and awnings and umbrellas offering little to no shelter. The temperature is a little cooler- that is nice. In fact, I welcome the rain and actually like it, I always have! I like to have the windows open and listen to the gutters overflowing causing the water to haphazardly splat into puddles below. There is something comforting about that wet white noise.

Seoul is a crowded city....  too crowded. My walk to work is a constant competition for sidewalk space, meaning that there are too many people walking in the same place at the same time that you have to be aggressive to make it through. It is rather annoying, especially at 8am, a time I’m still not used to. So imagine these overpopulated sidewalks and crosswalks, add the dumping rain, now every single person has an umbrella! Open like armor, securing their 2.5-foot perimeter. Get too close and they will just stab you with one of their umbrella spikes, shamelessly and without looking back. At first I was shocked! Old men, sweet looking ladies, teenagers and businessmen alike all combatively running into others with their umbrella spikes! Sometimes one will catch on another persons causing resistance, and eventually getting through the snarl, but often causing damage. This is crazy! I never really used umbrellas until I moved here, now it is necessary, and now I must learn these forceful ways to operate my umbrella on the crowded streets. I’m picking it up quickly, but I will admit that I already scouted out a new route to work, so as to avoid the masses if possible.

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There was a lovely break from the rain on Sunday; the day they said there would be a typhoon of all days! I took advantage of the temporary rainless weather to take a walk, surprise surprise…. The sky was gray, making my neighborhood have a very serious look- all those skyscrapers reflecting the dark clouds, the streets wet and dark. So here is what I saw, on one gray afternoon, when the lighting seemed perfect the temperature a nice relief and my camera in hand! All these photos are from my immediate neighborhood, I was too lazy to walk very far! So enjoy....

my view, the sight that inspired the walk...

this is my street, just as you exit our building, heading east

the gangnam subway station has been under construction for months, they are putting in a bunch of new vendors and shops, the first few opened last weekend, amidst the ongoing renovation

tv screens everywhere!

i see this sign every day

Red and yellow, black and white

Everything was perfect. The moment I had dreamed about came true. As I emerged, there it was. The scene of delight. There was an eddy of struggle rippling out into similar sights. Green polka dots, see through, black with gray trim, I was surrounded by all these and more. They were scattered around, discarded, they were inside out in the hands of their owners, they were blowing around like tumble weed. In the damp heat I walked through the meters of Asians; my eyes amused. Between these two buildings, right after my Yeoksam subway exit 3, on June 23, 2011, there was the perfect storm. It is not a well known fact, but I love the sight of a dysfunctional umbrella. That twisted mechanical silver spidery technology that has failed in its function. Even more than this, the way a calm, collected professional deals with the combination of cheap umbrella and strong wind. Luckily, Korea is plentiful with cheap, flimsy umbrellas, and this rainy wind was unconcerned with an Asians fear of the elements. My eyes feasted on the comical faces trying to hold onto their shields. A man unsuccessfully attempted to fix his, and marched in devoted anger to deposit his now worthless covering into a receptacle. As my head turned to follow his course, I saw the trash can already brimming with planted umbrella handles that had been speared into it. The process of turning my head back to my path saw the combustive inverting of 3 umbrellas. I felt special. The sounds were pleasant and distant in the whipping wind and sloshing traffic. I passed by corners with gnarled up, white ribboned, scrap piles of flapping fabric and shining metal joints that would make any x-ray technician cringe if it were fractured bones instead of hinging metal and ripped waterproof wind sock. Ahead of me, the nylon between two spines was vibrating in urgent alarm, the segment fully stressed by the mounting wind. The taut shape would bounce, lifting as if to never stop, and returning in a gravity descent, fatiguing the integrity of the structure, but reminding me of an amusement ride. My umbrella remained closed in my hand, as the rain was hardly present at this point. Oncoming foot traffic sped by, their expensive golf umbrellas pulling them like a sail. Portable counterparts did not stand a chance. They became a straight line like a dried and stretched out bat attached to a pole. Those who made it through the wind torrent had a new shape above them. Picture a sloping gentle hill where beyond the apex there suddenly juts up steeply a distorted arm only to abruptly fall off like a cliff. Practically, the owners of such contraptions only lost about 20% of coverage, but the silly look of it was priceless. Never before have I seen such a concentrated onslaught on a group of people all scrambling and acting the fool, but then again, this is only day 2 of the rainy season. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, there's always tomorrow, and why not enjoy the spirit of Nature as she indiscriminately plays with who she will.

you are what you eat... know what you are eating!

Food. It’s always on my mind. When’s my next meal? What will I cook? Where will I dine? Thoughts about how wonderful something tastes or how strange it looks or how much work went into it, but lately I have been really consumed with some greater questions revolving around food. What is in my food? How does this effect my body? Who is really benefiting most from me eating this?

Everywhere I look I see that there are ever rising health problems in America.  This is undeniable. In addition to this major issue of health and wellness, upon recent research I am finding a shocking and complicated relationship between farms and politics and major corporations.

I believe so greatly that what we eat matters. Where it comes from, what it is treated with, how it is produced and distributed, who is making major decisions, and how we, as people can maintain control over it. We are what we eat, literally! That which goes in us fuels us and in turn, shapes our minds and bodies, and often action and behavior. What we choose to eat can also say a great deal about what we are willing to support. 

There is a reality that the conversation about food has shifted dramatically in the past decade, and even more so in the past few years, and this is great. If this current conversation gives rise to an overall greater knowledge about food, and these complex questions around it, then it will have done some good. But I have a hope that it will do more.

I have been spending a lot of time reading and researching this topic, and it just so happens that I live in Korea! They have not adopted some of the beliefs that pockets of America have about eating locally and without lots of added mysterious stuff (like awesome Portland, from which I came). Reading food labels is impossible for me here. In February the strawberries are all about the size of a bell pepper and perfectly red and all the same size and shape, exactly. No joke. In June, overnight, literally, the strawberries all went away. Out of season? In the summer? Oh no…. it’s watermelon season now. Perfect watermelons. No seeds, all sweet and juicy and exactly the same size. It’s not a secret that the produce here is made from chemicals. So with this knowledge and also the new information that I have grown so passionate about, I have found myself frustrated! Not only are my feelings about genetically modified food and artificial sweeteners and MSG all becoming more heightened, but also I can’t avoid them!

I take the most basic steps I can, but the frustration is still there. So I decided the other day, in an Ah-Ha moment that I would allow myself to stop being so mad about this and stop channeling all this anger towards Koreans for being so non health-conscious. There are seasons in life, or chapters (to call upon the reoccurring metaphor in emails to my friends these days), and this is a season to educate myself even more, to learn a lot and do what I can, and not feel bad about what I can NOT do in terms of the food world.

I have chosen to take up full time education (via the internet) on organic urban farming so that I may be an expert when I do return to the states. I am taking the time now to sift through the myths and realities of the politics of farming and food and find what is best for me, for my body and mind. And while I can not avoid the food now, I can prepare myself for a time, not so far from now, when I can.

I have chosen to add a few selected readings and resourses for anyone who wants to know for themselves some of the things that have been on my mind and in my conversations.

Industrial Tomatoes - this is an eye opening article about tomatoes. years ago I made a personal decision to pretty much avoid tomatoes when they are not in season. They taste so good when they are fresh and ripe! I will wait all winter for those yummy summer gems. This article not only solidifies that decision in a nutritional sense, but also in a serious social sense. 

The Ethicurean - a resource for finding news and funny stories and ideas for cooking and keeping the food in your life healthy and fair. 

Improving School Food - and article by the Environmental Working Group that clearly states the cost and benefit of implementing healthy and natural school lunches for public school kids in order to combat health issues and boost mental growth. I loved this article, I urge you to read it! 

Michael Pollan's daily link - selected articles from news or other sources that caught the eye of food activist and writer Michael Pollan. Usually good stuff here. 

Do you trust Monsanto? - this is one woman's eloquent analysis of the giant corporation Monsanto, the makers of agent orange and DDT, who have a heavy hand in policy making for food.

Civil Eats - another all around information and ideas website for all things green and food related.

bridge over the river Han and 1988 summer olympics

It was a nice mellow weekend, spent outdoors soaking up the sun and the wonderful HOT summer weather of Seoul. Everyone is saying that the rain is about to come, perhaps tomorrow, and it will stay for over a month. Torrential flooding and lightening storms every day! Yikes! So we are making the most of the limited time we do have to roam around the city without umbrellas. This past weekend, for the second Saturday in a row we rented bikes for free from Songpa-gu office at Jamsil station. This time with Peeps along for the ride. 

don't you just love Ryans pink cruiser? 

the bike paths are so nice, especially when they are not super crowded!

We took a new route this time around, cruising through the city for a short while before arriving at Olympic park. in 1988 the summer olympics were held in Seoul. Huge structures were erected to hold the events, some of Seoul's proud landmarks to this day. There is a huge park that sits in the center of these arenas, really beautiful landscaping! It has some ponds and lots of fountains and a huge gate at the entrance. We rode around on the paths for a while, stopping to film some video here and there or take in the sights. 

the gate at the entrance to Olympic Park

After we'd seen enough of the park we headed to the Han river, to take advantage, yet again, of the excellent bicycle paths that run along either side of the huge waterway. This time we headed east, towards the edge of the city. We passed several inviting mini marts before selecting the perfect one for our afternoon lunch of kimbap, ramen, and kimchi. I love the food here! I will miss it when I leave, but I will be happy to have some of the comforts of the western diet back in my life too. And more than that the ability to know what is in my food and where it came from.... ah.... that'll be nice. 

a good spot to stop for lunch...

The Han river is massive. It is over a kilometer wide throughout the city and is crossed by 27 bridges! The bridges are fascinating, each is so different, some have fountains off the sides, some light up at night, some have multi layers or train tracks below. All are BIG! And full of traffic 24/7. As I said before we rode east... away from the most populated center of the city and well, it looks like soon the bridge count will rise! There is construction underway for two new bridges. It looks so eerie, and I don't know why, because it's just a bunch of cement... anyway, the guys agreed that it looked creepy, so I guess I'm not alone. 

And speaking of the olympics- they made a new bridge to cross over right at the location of the new arenas and the park. It is aptly named "olympic bridge" and has a giant torch on the top of it! 

The sun and the exercise had us all thoroughly exhausted and not up for much that evening. There were some things going on... a homebrew fest in Habongchon, some dinner options and of course there are bars and restaurants all over the place. But we opted to end the afternoon on a nice patio in a random parking lot. This lady was serving beer and small plates of food from some makeshift mobile unit, there was shade, chairs and no traffic. Perfect. So that concluded our day in the sun, only to wake up the next day and have another... this time up at namsan with Nathan playing card games and dice and chess! Not too bad. I really feel that I have had to become a weekend warrior, being as we work the dreadful monday to friday, nine to five. But it's not so bad I guess.... I get so much more done, and my body is healthier when I am up early in the morning. 

Someone sent this picture to Josh, it must have been taken over seven years ago! Look how young we are! It's awesome to have this picture, from when we were just buddies...

from the Dude Ranch, circa 2004-2005, we look so different! But I still have that sweater and Josh still has that shirt... some things never change. But my taste in beer sure has! 

and it happened just like that....

Yeoksamdong, Gangnamgu, Seoul, Korea! How didi I end up here? Well it is true, it's a crazy adventure this life. If You asked me a year ago I would not have believed I would be here, in this massive city, teaching middle school kids at a public school. But well, I guess it's a good example of how quickly life can change. Josh and I were doomed- we had to fall in love, despite the fact that actually both of us were happy being single and content on remaining that way. But we just couldn't help it; our hearth had other plans and we fell so in love! Last summer, the summer of 2010, was spent in such a fun way! Going to the river, the Sandy or the Washougal or Sauvie Island, also we went on lots of bike rides and long walks, so in love, and having so much to talk about. We went out to awesome dinners all the time and spent many evenings drinking Hamms at Pinstripes on SE 11th. The world was our world, we did anything possible to spend time together despite our opposite schedules. We both love Portland, but towards the end of summer we both had an annoyance about the place. Sometimes a city can be too small. My job was making me crazy- I had been working at FOTM for  over three years and that place, awesome as it is, also has so it's fair share of issues, anyway... my job was getting old.  Josh and I both were rather bored and burned out from our social scene, it was demanding energy of us that we didn't care about. Lots of petty people; often gossip and often drugs.  Again- people that can be cool, but a scene that was unhealthy and overall taxing. So one day, very randomly, we talked about planning a trip to Seoul, Korea, to visit Nathan, and in that one conversation, not a long on at all- we decided that it would be a cool opportunity to come here for a year and teach, make a ton of money, travel, spend time with Nathan and his new wife, Irina (and now they are going to have a baby!), and at the same time we can easily remove ourselves from the negativity in Portland. What a cool opportunity! So we just did it- and never looked back. From that one afternoon conversation things began to fall in to place. We bought the one way tickets for crazy cheap, because at that time tensions between North and South Korea were at an all time high. In fact people were calling us crazy! And it was a little crazy, and I'll admit there were some moments of nervousness about the war, but they never opened any door for doubt about our decision. As the weeks and months chipped away very quickly we kept organizing things appropriate to the timing, we put our things in storage, sold our cars, spent a lot of time with my family and our friends, eventually had our crazy going away parties and it all happened so fast! We were waiting outside our cute apartment on 18th and Clinton, in the deep dark of a cold winter morning, before any traces of dawn were on the horizon, expecting our Radio Cab, and away we went! To the airport and whisked away across to great Pacific Ocean on a long, long, long flight to arrive in Seoul with no job, no house, no clue about anything! But we had eachother, and some good ideas, and luckily my brother- to help us out for a short bit while we got our jobs and our apartment. And here we are! More than four months into our new life in Asia. We are full blown teachers! Living in one of the biggest, most densely populated cities in the world, and it happened just like that....

long weeks happen

Friday! It was a long week, full of root canals and lacking in logic or organization. I have been finding solace from the um, well, annoying aspects of life here, by keeping in my headphones, making mixes left and right on 8tracks. Now it is a mere moments before my 4:30 freedom.... to spend some time with family and friends, likely sitting at a mini mart, which has become our favorite thing to do here. Seriously. I never thought my favorite place to hang out would be a mini mart, but it actually is! Josh and I have been scoping out our neighborhood for the best one and so far we have three or four pretty good ones within a few two block radius! 
I miss my friends back home, especially Danielle and Kate, you lovely ladies! 


“I had the misfortune to be nourished by the dreams and visions of great Americans—the poets and seers. Some other breed of man has won out. This world which is in the making fills me with dread. I have seen it germinate; I can read it like a blue-print. It is not a world I want to live in. It is a world suited for monomaniacs obsessed with the idea of progress—a false progress, a progress which stinks. It is a world cluttered with useless objects which men and women, in order to be exploited and degraded, are taught to regard as useful. The dreamer whose dreams are non-utilitarian has no place in this world. Whatever does not lend itself to being bought and sold, whether in the realm of things, ideas, principles, dreams or hopes, is debarred. In this world the poet is anathema, the thinker a fool, the artist an escapist, the man of vision a criminal.” Henry Miller

i'm actually teaching

So I write on here all about my travels and life in Seoul and what I do in my free time, so it could seem to some that I don't even teach! Well, it is true.... for some reason I was given authority over several hundred middle school students. I get to subject them to an hour a week of my awesome teaching skills...

I teach first grade and third grade, which is for middle school age, so I don't know exactly how that translates to schools in the US, and I don't actually know how old they are.... I think my first graders are 13 (??) and my third graders are already little adults, so maybe 15 or 16 (??).

I have a much better time with the little ones. They don't fully understand at that age how to be manipulative and disrespectful... they still look up to their teachers a little bit. But those third graders... whew... I better be on their good side or they let me know. Class is so much more about keeping all 35 of them under control and keeping their attention fully focused than it is about hammering home grammar and vocabulary. Being super strict is essential in this line of work, which took me a couple months to really learn, but I have it down now.

I teach 22 classes per week, each about 45 minutes in length. I spend the rest of my hours planning lessons and copying worksheets, making powerpoint presentations, watching lots of boring videos on youtube to find that perfect one to show class, and well... some personal interneting as well.  Communication is at an all time low in this country so I usually keep my headphones in and work in solitude.

The first few weeks were so new, full of nervousness and insecurity as a teacher. Now it's easy. I am used to it, I am familiar with the students, and I know how to get through to them, so I don't stress too much anymore. This week I am testing my first graders with a one on one speaking test, they are so cute! And so damn nervous that I almost feel guilty for having them do this...

I love 4:30 in the afternoon like I have never loved it before, in fact it used to be the time I went to work, for so many years, and now I am off.... I leave school each afternoon with a skip in my step, and a good beat on my ipod. Leaving is freedom again for a half a day! And how I love that freedom. Josh and I have settled into a really nice routine with our evenings, which involves cooking and playing chess or go-stop (a rad korean card game), watching movies or reading, and to bed so early! This job is not done easily hung over or tired, unlike all those years slinging wings and drinks (I think it was easier hung over?).....

Aren't my students so cute?

Love, n

highlights of Seoul

Summer is here, in full swing and it is HOT! And it is only going to get hotter, and more humid. For the first time in my life I have air conditioning and I am glad for that. We live on the third and top floor of our apartment building and, well that will be nice in the winter, but it's already like an oven in there. So to try and beat the heat the other day we rented bicycles and headed to the river. At Jamsil station, between exits 1 and 2 there is a shop that rents bicycles for free for the whole day! It was super easy, and somewhat conveniently easy to get to from our neighborhood. So we got our rickety cruisers, both too small for us, and dangerously made our way through Seoul traffic before reaching the amazing bike path that lines either side of the enormous Han river.

  

the path was far removed from the traffic of the city as we rode about six kilometers on one side, and under maybe eight bridges before crossing the river and heading back along the other side. There were lots of other cyclists and fishermen posted up in the shade under most of the bridges. Some kids were beating the heat by playing in a huge water fountain and we even found a rose garden in full bloom. It felt like a slice of Portland when I spotted a bum under the bridge. We stopped frequently to cool off in some shade or to have our simple lunch of kimbap and ramen at a mini mart. We saw some cool things along the way so I'll give you a glimpse into our sights, and I'll add a few other photos from our daily adventures around Seoul. 

a floating buddhist temple

Namsan tower and the Iteawon neighborhood, from across the river.

this is the Ttukseom bridge and overpass. This is massive! As with, well... most things in this city. I think that the combination of the huge loop and the odd building, with the apartment high rises in the back it looks like something out of a science fiction movie.

this is one of the main temples in Seoul, takes a few weeks ago when we were out walking around in the northern part of the city. 

taken at the war museum, we went on a random monday off and they were closed but we were able to roam around the grounds, free of many other people. There were scores of aircraft carriers and tanks and statues created to remember the many wars that Korea has been in over it's history. 

In the Hongdae neighborhood. This is some street art that Josh captured at an old abandoned home. They are doing some crazy demolition along a few blocks to make a new and fancy subway station. This too will soon be gone. 

Also in the Hongdae neighborhood, a bright window into a cafe..

  

(above) this is in our neighborhood, we often use this subway station, and the street is one of the busiest in Seoul. Traffic is so crazy on this road. The buildings that line the street have cool design, ahh... the concrete jungle! 

this is my new shirt that I got for about four bucks on the side of the street. I read it and I just had to get it, because it makes NO SENSE! This kind of messed up english is found everywhere.
It reads: "on a nice holyday 'divas CUTE' 'when I happened is everything ok' LOOKED elevator looks nearly killed me. getting sociated." 

This is from our trip to the east coast a few weeks ago, not sure what it is, or why it sits in solitude on the beautiful beach, but it caught my eye none the less!

a beautiful sunset over the lake. I love these mirror shots!