In the very NE corner of South Korea, just minutes from the border with the rivals up north, lies a beautiful town, with an incredible coastline. In the area surrounding Sokcho, South Korea are small and rural villages with rice farms and gardens galore. Small shanty-esque dwellings clustered on the hillsides are the foreground of the scores of mountain peaks all around. Everything seemed to be in bloom and the freshness of the sea air was very refreshing. Mixed in with one teeny neighborhood of humble homes and terraced gardens was one very out of place home. A mansion! Nothing about it seemed very Korean at all, except the lack of beds and ample supply of sleeping cushions (super comfortable, actually). The house had a really big open layout, half a dozen bedrooms and and bathrooms, really nice front and back porches with tables and benches lining them. Sixteen people all together were the inhabitants of this home for three days. What a blast it was. We all pitched in and did one large grocery shopping trip and ate like queens and kings every meal, with leftovers! There was a BBQ and a Mexican food feast and brunches that rival the Portland restaurant scene.
When we were not eating or relaxing around our little yard we were pretty much at the beach. The ocean was the most beautiful tropical sea blue color and the vast open beach was nearly empty.... it isn't "beach season" in Korea yet and it would be too outside the social norms to hit the sand before it was "normal". That was just fine with us, we managed to get a massive wiffle ball game going, and played lots of frisbee. It was hot and sunny, the water was....um....refreshing (read: cold!). Everyone got a sunburn, I mean everyone. No matter how much sunscreen we were continually applying. The sun was so intense for our pasty white winter skin. I was happy as could be swimming in the water for hours while losing feeling in my limbs from the coldness.... it is hard for me to leave the water!
One of the most dangerous and heavily guarded borders in the world happens to be very beautiful and calm, creating an interesting contrast of thoughts and ideas. We took one morning off from our beach duty and drove the really short drive to the DMZ. It was a strange and cool experience. After a somewhat long process of registering our cars and all the passengers and paying a small fee we proceeded to the gate where heavily armed soldiers were checking the cars and paperwork before admitting anyone to the border. As we drove on past the check point the scenery became very desolate and tall barbed wire fences were just everywhere we looked. The beautiful untouched beach to our east and the menacing isolated enemy to our north. We walked up to an observation deck and there it was! North Korea, but it was hard to see much. There is a five kilometer DMZ in between the countries, no one lives there, no one goes there, nothing is seen there, except a big road with no cars on it and an empty train track and some empty buildings and of course the beautiful beach and lots of barbed wire.
At the border there was a North Korean market, not sure how they got that up and running, I think it is something that was grandfathered in from about forty years ago, when relations between the two countries were more stable. They were selling various foods and alcohol products and trinkets. There was a major demand for the rumored delicious North Korean beer. Sure enough it was killer! Beats any Korean beer I've had so far, but then again, this country is notorious for having bad brews. Along with a market and a few places to eat there is a cool park with a giant white buddha statue and some artifacts from the Korean War.... which my Grandfather fought in! We hung around enjoying our beer, the scenery, our friends, and especially being on the free side of the border!
We made the most of our time and pushed it until the final time we had to leave! Of course it is hard to leave vacation, especially at such a beautiful, remote place, knowing that work is looming so close in the morning. And of course we are tired and dragging a little today, but it's worth it for sure! June and July will be a little busy here at school.... lots of exams and projects to work on. Then Vietnam in August! I miss my people back home! Take care of yourselves.
"Nothing makes the earth seem so spacious as to have friends at a distance; they make the latitudes and longitudes."
— HENRY DAVID THOREAU
love love love
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